September brought two other Australian VIPs to the Nepal Diaries
Enter: Maryanne and Sara
Enter: Maryanne and Sara
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| what could that be we're holding? |
So we stood out a little with our kurtas and arrival sign. But as you can see it didn't get us anywhere in the crowds flooding the arrivals gates. Dreading the waiting room claustrophobia we opted to play hide and seek with the patrol officers, avoiding eye contact so as to stay in our positions as long as possible. Finally, we were shafted out with the plebs. When the rain threatened to fuzz my hair though, we relented to the waiting room, and were sipping surprisingly good airport coffee as the girls finally appeared! 'Ditch the coffee or not', was the question...
We were all giggles and hugs for the first few hours. Fitting kurtas, squeezing into taxis and trying to concentrate on 'Thulo Kul's' (Big Kul) 'trek briefing'. But we settled down somewhat once our appetites were appeased by our Roadhouse special: pesto and olive pizza (much to Maryanne's gratitude, who after a week India was not craving marsala).
Early the next morning, Ai-chan and Misa-ji (our upstairs neighbours) joined us as we made for the bus station in the rain...Despite the resulting fogged windows, Sara was overjoyed at the amount of rice paddies she observed on route. It compensated for the lack of Mandarin speakers and Terracotta warriors in Nepal...
Pokhara was as it always is...'sundar' (beautiful)...
Somehow landing back at the Boomerang Bar that evening, the girls had their first Nepali daal-bhat experience.
The next morning, however, far from 24 hr power, I was a mess. Losing my insides out the window of our mini-van I was worried as to how Day 1 was going to fare. Strangely enough, as we arrived at our starting point, Nayapul, I miraculously recovered, and even ventured to digest some digestives*. Seriously good timing!
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| Prashangsa |
It was school time in Nayapul, so as we started into the town we were met by dozens of little boys and girls in plaits and bows, and long white sox, some not even 3 years old. Captured by the charm we stopped every couple of seconds to snap yet another smiling 'bacchar' (child).
We met a lovely little girl travelling our way who was carrying her baby brother home. We took turns overtaking one another and chatted about school and the paradise. She was one of the few kids we met who did not ask for: 'choclat', 'e-skul^ pen', 'rupee' or 'dollaar'. Her genuineness and perhaps her name, Prashangsa**, ironically made me want to give her all that she hadn't asked for. We finally parted leaving a koala, an e-skul pen and a New World tract in her happy little hand.
We met a lovely little girl travelling our way who was carrying her baby brother home. We took turns overtaking one another and chatted about school and the paradise. She was one of the few kids we met who did not ask for: 'choclat', 'e-skul^ pen', 'rupee' or 'dollaar'. Her genuineness and perhaps her name, Prashangsa**, ironically made me want to give her all that she hadn't asked for. We finally parted leaving a koala, an e-skul pen and a New World tract in her happy little hand.
The women in their colourful batik lungis^ taking their morning showers, and the many porters carrying more than healthy amounts of cargo also arrested our attention. Thus our morning saunter cost us a few valuable trekking hours (we would later find out). It was already 1 pm before we arrived at Syauli Bazaar (NOT our half way point).
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| wonder what kind of mattress this guy sleeps on? |
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| makes outdoor bathing look appealing |
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| high-5 to the steri-pen |
At lunch, our porter/guide 'Sano Kul' (little Kul) was keeping 'himself to himself'. Perhaps he was shy, or perhaps he was intimidated - 7 women to 1 boy is admittedly a tough ratio. Thus in an effort to make him feel comfortable I dedicated a song for him. Seeing as he is Kul and, we, were sort of a gang, Kool & The Gang's, 'Jungle Boogie', seemed somewhat appropriate.
There was no definite reaction from Kul, but it was an ice-breaker at least...
After lunch our climb gradient increased fairly dramatically, and those of us who had felt comfortable and confident until that point, lost confidence...
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| 'putali' (butterfly) - still relaxed at this point |
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| I swear this is not cross-processed |
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| does it get much cuter? |
The sun had disappeared from view when we were told it would be yet another 2 hours to Ghandruk, our destination. Thus against Kul's advice we compromised to stay in Kimch (the last stop before Ghandruk) with the intent of reaching Ghandruk the following morning for breakfast with a view....
The owners of our guesthouse in Kimch were truly lovely. The father was really affectionate with his children and especially proud that his daughter had walked home from Nayapul in record speed (about half the time it had taken us). The mother made the best daal-bhat on trek, and that together with a hot shower, well and truly compensated for the moths and the odd spider...Seeing as the general rest stop is Ghandruk, we were happy we had stopped and could help out such appreciative souls. (FYI: it is at the top of the village, passed the school, with a lovely view over the valley)
The next morning we woke to this...
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| the first and last clear shot of Machaapuchare |
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| morning has broken... |
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| Maryanne strides it out |
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| morning traffic |
Reaching Ghandruk still took longer than anticipated thus our Annapurna view was not as 'purna' (whole; complete) as we would have liked but it was still a mighty view...and breakfast - omelette in chapati bread with a couple of marsala chiyas - was oh so mito!
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| Annapurna Guesthouse as opposed to the one in Chitwan, it actually as a view of Annapurna |
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| did I mention I love breakfast? |
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| popcorn anybody? |
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| a sweet Gurung family I met leaving Ghandruk (It is the last house in town if anyone wants to make a return visit. The girl in the middle is possibly 'Kamala', or 'Kapilla' or 'Kabita' or something starting with 'K-'????) |
This next leg of our journey made the popular t-shirt adage, 'Nepal flat: little bit up, little bit down'^^, rich in meaning for us.
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| Wild flowers took our minds momentarily off the climb |
We were told that the previous day was far worse and that the trail which lay before us would be 'hilly' perhaps...And perhaps to the locals who have traversed those hills since they were able to stand, the final climb up to Jhinu-danda was just that. However, we could not but feel that we had been had misled...
Poor Auntie had taken a fall coming down the moss-covered steps from Ghandruk, so when she and Kul appeared, we were relieved, that she too, some 30 years our senior had made it in one piece. Feel like a Tooheys***? Thankfully we had two Japanese masseuses on hand.
After settling into our quarters, we quickly changed and set out for some greatly needed 'hot-spring-ification'. If you find yourself on your way to Annapurna Base Camp, we would recommend visiting the Jhinu-danda hot-springs on the way back. It really helps relieve your muscles, but if you still had several days to go perhaps it would be premature...
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| before |
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| during |
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| after |
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| quick! hide the Australians! |
On our way to the hot-springs, we had encountered a rather leggy middle-aged Britannian who having spent the afternoon in the springs was returning to town. She was fairly chipper at that point, however, when she mysteriously reappeared and started snapping us in the springs, she quickly became irritated at our protests...We thus encountered for the first time 'on-trail sledging'. Apparently, we 'Australians' are always sticking our noses in other peoples business - ironically not the ones taking unsanctioned photos of complete strangers bathing...
To avoid any further altercations we tried to keep low profiles that night at dinner...
The next morning we retraced the horrid steps back down from Jhinu-danda, and traversed the mountainside towards the river at Himalpani in time for morning chiya. A local Gurung didi thought I needed some attention (admittedly I did; who forgets to bring a hair tie trekking I ask you?) and rearranged my hair into a nice braid. When Auntie and Kul arrived, Kul suggested Auntie take a pony (yes, as in a small horse - amazing what this country offers at times) the rest of the journey...She decided against the idea, and as we slipped and slided our way down to the river and across the suspension bridge we were grateful at her decision...
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| a little man I fell in-love with... |
The day's pace allowed for some witnessing, so we had several nice chats with local Gurungs along the way. As I arrived out of breathe at the top of the stairs in Tolka, I met a lovely woman (her name was possibly: Susilla or Sunita or Shristi or something starting with 'S-' ????) and her niece at the very first guesthouse (if anyone wants to do a return visit) where I collapsed. We spoke for about half an our about who the Creator is? what is His promise for our future? and do Christians eat chicken?
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| look closely |
Alas, when Kul arrived he was determined this time to take the lead and push us farther onwards. Some fellow trekkers and their guide suggested we stay at a guesthouse on the outer edge of Tolka boasting a hot tub and a beautiful view of Annapurna II and Dhaulagiri. However, when Auntie and Kul caught up, Kul gently insisted again we continue to the next town. Maybe we did not truly appreciate his advice at the time, but the next morning, waking up half an hour closer to our destination felt good.
The family we stayed with at Bedi-Kharka (more affectionately known as 'Betty-kaka') were evidently old friends of Kul - the grandfather addressed him as his 'son', which I found touching as Kul's father had passed away. It is a nice aspect of the Nepali culture that the community adopts somewhat these children, especially from the same caste. Kul had not looked so comfortable and happy as at this point.
They were a lovely family and exerted themselves to make sure we were comfortable. Though equipped with just a 'bucket shower', they faithfully boiled water for all 7 of us princesses, and by the time we were all scrubbed up, our daal-bhat was served.
They were a lovely family and exerted themselves to make sure we were comfortable. Though equipped with just a 'bucket shower', they faithfully boiled water for all 7 of us princesses, and by the time we were all scrubbed up, our daal-bhat was served.
The next morning inspired by Ai-chan and Misa-ji, I ventured to taste my first 'thukpa'^^^. It was a glorious start to the morning, and we thus set out with fresh vigour to glimpse Dhaulagiri from the top of the pass.
This final day was supposed to be an easy walk from Pothana to Phedi. However, when we arrived at Pothana close to our estimated departure time, we soon realised the day would be much longer. I was not so concerned about the time, but being behind schedule we invariably arrived at viewpoints just as the clouds had submerged the himal. Thus we had to content ourselves with the mustard field laden foothills...
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| Dhampus |
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| rustic house |
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| Australia Camp? |
A couple of wrong turns here and there and a few aching knees later, in a slow succession we all finally arrived in Phedi. And by 3:00 pm we were piled into our mini-van ready to boom it back to KTM.
Before we left Pokhara, I was reminded of what quality shoppers Sara and Maryanne are...a 15 minute stop in search of heart designed lungis, and these girls did not come back empty handed.
Our ride home was 70% karaoke (courtesy of me and MJ) and 30% hindi pop...'ramailo bayo' (very fun!)...ahhh - I miss karaoke...
Before we left Pokhara, I was reminded of what quality shoppers Sara and Maryanne are...a 15 minute stop in search of heart designed lungis, and these girls did not come back empty handed.
Our ride home was 70% karaoke (courtesy of me and MJ) and 30% hindi pop...'ramailo bayo' (very fun!)...ahhh - I miss karaoke...
The next day we showed the ladies off at our meeting. Apparently Maryanne and I look like sisters - you know brown hair, whiter skin, same same...
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| fresh from trek |
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| introducing the local rebels |
After successfully hunting down some more kurta fabric and organising the tailor, we headed down-town to Durbar Square. Working our way through the pashmina and yak wool retailers we found ourselves in this little nook in Asaan in search of a 'two-toned' shawl for Sara (PS...Sara I have not been able to shake the pursuit! I still look out for the perfect blue-green shawl!). After bartering on a shawl, the 'sahuji" (shop-keeper) called us: 'sisters' and asked which congregation we were from. When I asked him how he knew, he said we looked like sisters...That made us feel pretty great.
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| dust particles, us and a random in Durbar Square |
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| Alan and I getting cosy |
And so began our last day together in Kathmandu. Slowly starting our day with porridge, coffee and a chat, Sara and I then went to my beautiful study, Solinar. Solinar's mother is Chettri and her father is Tamang, so she was explaining how at festival times she enjoys both cultures. As you can see though she really suits the traditional Tamang attire.
After leaving Solinar, we snuck in some last minute sneaky mo:mos (Sara's opinion: 'not bad, but nothing on DinTaiFung****!", and then spent the rest of the afternoon traversing the streets of Thamel in search of more yak wool and pashminas. Just time enough for one last quick, but deep and meaningful session, then we were in search once again for a taxi to airport. Strangely enough we stumbled upon the previous night's driver, who found it amusing that we were once again, 5 ladies in his taxi...
And then they were gone...
Farewell lovelies! Thanks for visiting.
Next stop: Sydney!!!
* 'Digestives' - a bland kind of bikky^^^^
^ 'e-skul' - Nepali for 'school'
** 'Prashangsa' - Nepali for 'praise'
^^ 'alikati ukalo, alikati oralo' - Nepali for 'little bit up, little bit down'. In reality it means 'a lot uphill...'
*** 'Tooheys' - Aussie beer
^^^ 'thukpa' - Nepali/Tibetan noodle soup
^^^ 'thukpa' - Nepali/Tibetan noodle soup
**** 'DinTaiFung' - Taiwanese dumpling restaurant chain
^^^^'Bikky' - Australian for biscuit, cookie, and occasionally, money...
^^^^'Bikky' - Australian for biscuit, cookie, and occasionally, money...
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