campaign and the DC

Ritsu and Ai-chan

Pre-convention


The beginning of this month all were busily involved in distributing the invitations to our 'adiivashan' (DC). 

Ritsu and I were able to experience some village witnessing as we joined up with Tahachal mandali for a day in the foothills NW of KTM. I really enjoyed the opportunity of getting to know brothers and sisters from another congregation who as per usual were very welcoming and interested (I was excited to recognise many of their faces later in the dramas too).  We were also blessed that day with a surprisingly clear view of the himal.  For the first time I was able to see Manaslu, Ganesh, Langtang and one of the Annapurnas from KTM itself.  

not just clouds!
ps...yes, that's a spider...

Tahachal-ites

a nice change from the city

mustard fields

The most memorable experience during the campaign, however, happened right here in Baneshwor's territory. 

The week before the 'adiivashan' Ai-chan and I were working one morning in a poorer neighbourhood called Til Ganga (where the ghettos meet Kathmandu - seriously, I felt like I had walked onto a Bollywood set for Dangerous Minds there was so much rap pouring out of these buildings...).  


We turned a corner uncertain exactly where we should start next, when as we started approaching this little shop, we saw an old man standing in its doorframe reading a book.  My first reaction was that the book looked serious, like perhaps a bible.  I asked him what he was reading but he was so engrossed he did not answer.  I peered over and saw he was reading from, get this, 'Galati' (Galations), and heard him read under his breathe something about 'su-samacha' (good news).  Seizing the chance, I started from there and said 'buwa, we are here to talk to you about some good news...'.  


I gave him the invitation, explaining we were not from the church, rather that we are two of JWs.  I asked if he had heard the name 'Yehova' before.  He replied he had, not from the Bible, but from another book.  He then took out a small book with a makeshift black paper cover.  As he flipped through the pages I did a double-take, recognising some of the pictures.  I asked him if I could see the book, and sure enough, the images burnt into my childhood memory were once again set before me, 'My Book of Bible Stories'!  He had salvaged most, but not all, of the stories from some neighbourhood kids, collated them together and covered it.  I COULD NOT believe it!!!!! 


In his version of the bible God's personal name is only found in the preface to the book of Joel.  Thus, having shown him 'Yehova' in his personal bible, we then promised to bring back the complete 'My Book of Bible Stories'.
  
The next day Ritsu and I returned in the afternoon and met his daughter who was manning the shop.  I asked her if her father was in but reluctantly she replied that he was sleeping.  I explained that we had spoken the previous day and promised to bring him 'the book'.  On recognising the book, she immediately called out to him and quickly went and woke him up.  


The father stumbled out sleepily to meet us.  When his daughter handed him the book, he took it with a smile, went out into the light to examine it, and asked her in Newari, 'how much?'  At this moment I felt honoured to be a 'fellow worker', replying, 'you cannot pay for it; it's free...' 


Ram, the father, Maya, the mother, Puspa, the daughter, and her younger sister, Mayasanti all are regular church-goers and have an honest love for the bible.  The mother is illiterate but started attending 13 years ago.  From what I grasped, Ram, Puspa and Mayasanti only started in the last couple of years, but their Bibles are well read.  Puspa loves the Psalms and Proverbs especially.  


I also gave them a copy of the BT book (although Ram was still transfixed on his new 'My Book').  Puspa picked out the question on page 6 about 'how we can we be sure that God will fulfill his promises for the future?', and so we discussed for a while how our faith needs to be based on evidence.  


After giving us tea, Puspa wanted to introduce us to her little girl and her younger sister, Mayasanti.  At Mayasanti's, the girls asked us to stay to meet Mayasanti's husband.  And so we were waiting and waiting for her husband to come, and finally, when he did arrive, his mother and another man also came in and sat down with us.  Seconds later I was startled to learn that the mystery man was their church deacon!!!  


I was really nervous at this point.  My Nepali is still very limited and I was not sure what kind of reception we would meet, but was relieved to find that the deacon was not confrontational at all.  He was a really nice man.  We spoke for about half an hour explaining we had not been sent but came to Nepal out of our own desire, with our own money, and he seemed impressed.  Ritsu, my little side-kick, whipped out an invitation to the DC, and he said he would try to come, and, I genuinely believe he meant what he said...


Thus we left our new friends eager to see if they would show the next weekend.  


The convention was a memorable experience for loads of reasons, several of which are: 

• Over 1,600 attended the Saturday session (combined total of over 3,000 attended in Nepal - 500 more than this years memorial attendance)
• I understood much more than the previous assembly in Nepali (woo-hoo something's going in!);
• 31 were baptised (including a bhai and bahini from Baneshwor);
• the new brochures were released in both Nepali AND Newari;
• the dramas - Potiphar's wife would make a great Bollywood actress, dancing around the stage one second, ripping his clothes off the next...
• afternoon chiya with Lynn
• bumping into bhais and bahinis I had not seen for months  
• um, new saris...

afternoon chiya

Roji's family

me, Sayara, Ritz and Chasty

Sister Laxmi and her daughter

my little pen-pal, 'Swarmi'

Post-convention


Today I returned to Til Ganga with a Nepali brother, Niranjan.  Ram as it turns out attended two of the three days of the DC!!!  


Much of the conversation between Niranjan and Ram I did not understand well, but what I did understand was that Ram had observed that there needs to be unity more between Christians.  There are several churches in Nepal teaching rather different doctrines, some of which Ram personally had noted, are not biblical.  At one point I thought he was giving Niranjan the 'fob-off'*, saying that he had come to the DC because we had invited him, but that he would not come to the meeting.  Niranjan persevered, and somehow in the conversation that followed, gently offered him a bible study.  Ram accepted, and they have arranged to start studying next Thursday!!!


Niranjan and I then parted ways, and I walked with Ram to where he had been resting earlier in the sun.  He was wearing the same shy smile he wore when we returned with his 'My Book'...I am praying that at least if I cannot understand his spoken language, I can read his body language...


Yet another testament to how valuable 'My Book of Bible Stories' is...


* 'fob-off' - to indirectly 'brush-off'^
^ 'brush-off' - dismiss or reject someone or something which is viewed as unimportant

Kul & The Gang

September brought two other Australian VIPs to the Nepal Diaries

Enter: Maryanne and Sara

what could that be we're holding?

So we stood out a little with our kurtas and arrival sign.  But as you can see it didn't get us anywhere in the crowds flooding the arrivals gates.  Dreading the waiting room claustrophobia we opted to play hide and seek with the patrol officers, avoiding eye contact so as to stay in our positions as long as possible.  Finally, we were shafted out with the plebs.  When the rain threatened to fuzz my hair though, we relented to the waiting room, and were sipping surprisingly good airport coffee as the girls finally appeared!  'Ditch the coffee or not', was the question...

We were all giggles and hugs for the first few hours. Fitting kurtas, squeezing into taxis and trying to concentrate on 'Thulo Kul's' (Big Kul) 'trek briefing'. But we settled down somewhat once our appetites were appeased by our Roadhouse special: pesto and olive pizza (much to Maryanne's gratitude, who after a week India was not craving marsala).  

Early the next morning, Ai-chan and Misa-ji (our upstairs neighbours) joined us as we made for the bus station in the rain...Despite the resulting fogged windows, Sara was overjoyed at the amount of rice paddies she observed on route.  It compensated for the lack of Mandarin speakers and Terracotta warriors in Nepal...

Pokhara was as it always is...'sundar' (beautiful)...

Somehow landing back at the Boomerang Bar that evening, the girls had their first Nepali daal-bhat experience.

The next morning, however, far from 24 hr power, I was a mess.  Losing my insides out the window of our mini-van I was worried as to how Day 1 was going to fare.  Strangely enough, as we arrived at our starting point, Nayapul, I miraculously recovered, and even ventured to digest some digestives*.  Seriously good timing!

Prashangsa

It was school time in Nayapul, so as we started into the town we were met by dozens of little boys and girls in plaits and bows, and long white sox, some not even 3 years old.  Captured by the charm we stopped every couple of seconds to snap yet another smiling 'bacchar' (child).

We met a lovely little girl travelling our way who was carrying her baby brother home.  We took turns overtaking one another and chatted about school and the paradise.  She was one of the few kids we met who did not ask for: 'choclat', 'e-skul^ pen', 'rupee' or 'dollaar'.  Her genuineness and perhaps her name, Prashangsa**, ironically made me want to give her all that she hadn't asked for.  We finally parted leaving a koala, an e-skul pen and a New World tract in her happy little hand.  

The women in their colourful batik lungis^ taking their morning showers, and the many porters carrying more than healthy amounts of cargo also arrested our attention. Thus our morning saunter cost us a few valuable trekking hours (we would later find out).  It was already 1 pm before we arrived at Syauli Bazaar (NOT our half way point).  

wonder what kind of
mattress this guy sleeps on?

makes outdoor bathing
look appealing

high-5 to the steri-pen

Syauli Bazaar was where I first learnt to appreciate Auntie's (aka 'Lorraine', 'Alana's Auntie' or 'Thuli Ama' - Nepali for Auntie, but literally: 'big mumma') amazing water purifying device:  'the steri pen'.  Something about its semblance to a miniature light saber transfixed me.  Provided the water was not cloudy, in less than a minute this little guy brought you cool, clean, cost effective water - what's not to love?!

At lunch, our porter/guide 'Sano Kul' (little Kul) was keeping 'himself to himself'. Perhaps he was shy, or perhaps he was intimidated - 7 women to 1 boy is admittedly a tough ratio.  Thus in an effort to make him feel comfortable I dedicated a song for him.  Seeing as he is Kul and, we, were sort of a gang,  Kool & The Gang's, 'Jungle Boogie', seemed somewhat appropriate.

There was no definite reaction from Kul, but it was an ice-breaker at least...

After lunch our climb gradient increased fairly dramatically, and those of us who had felt comfortable and confident until that point, lost confidence...

'putali' (butterfly)
- still relaxed at this point

I swear this is not cross-processed

does it get much cuter?

The sun had disappeared from view when we were told it would be yet another 2 hours to Ghandruk, our destination.  Thus against Kul's advice we compromised to stay in Kimch (the last stop before Ghandruk) with the intent of reaching Ghandruk the following morning for breakfast with a view....

The owners of our guesthouse in Kimch were truly lovely.  The father was really affectionate with his children and especially proud that his daughter had walked home from Nayapul in record speed (about half the time it had taken us).  The mother made the best daal-bhat on trek, and that together with a hot shower, well and truly compensated for the moths and the odd spider...Seeing as the general rest stop is Ghandruk, we were happy we had stopped and could help out such appreciative souls.  (FYI: it is at the top of the village, passed the school, with a lovely view over the valley) 

The next morning we woke to this...

the first and last clear shot of Machaapuchare

morning has broken...

Maryanne strides it out

morning traffic

Reaching Ghandruk still took longer than anticipated thus our Annapurna view was not as 'purna' (whole; complete) as we would have liked but it was still a mighty view...and breakfast - omelette in chapati bread with a couple of marsala chiyas - was oh so mito!

Annapurna Guesthouse
as opposed to the one in Chitwan, it actually as a view of Annapurna

did I mention I love breakfast?

popcorn anybody?

a sweet Gurung family I met leaving Ghandruk
(It is the last house in town if anyone wants to make a return visit.
The girl in the middle is possibly 'Kamala', or 'Kapilla' or 'Kabita' or something starting with 'K-'????)

This next leg of our journey made the popular t-shirt adage, 'Nepal flat: little bit up, little bit down'^^, rich in meaning for us.

Wild flowers took our minds
 momentarily off the climb

We were told that the previous day was far worse and that the trail which lay before us would be 'hilly' perhaps...And perhaps to the locals who have traversed those hills since they were able to stand, the final climb up to Jhinu-danda was just that.   However, we could not but feel that we had been had misled...

Poor Auntie had taken a fall coming down the moss-covered steps from Ghandruk, so when she and Kul appeared, we were relieved, that she too, some 30 years our senior had made it in one piece.  Feel like a Tooheys***?  Thankfully we had two Japanese masseuses on hand.  

After settling into our quarters, we quickly changed and set out for some greatly needed 'hot-spring-ification'.  If you find yourself on your way to Annapurna Base Camp, we would recommend visiting the Jhinu-danda hot-springs on the way back.  It really helps relieve your muscles, but if you still had several days to go perhaps it would be premature...

before

during

after

quick! hide the Australians!

On our way to the hot-springs, we had encountered a rather leggy middle-aged Britannian who having spent the afternoon in the springs was returning to town.  She was fairly chipper at that point, however, when she mysteriously reappeared and started snapping us in the springs, she quickly became irritated at our protests...We thus encountered for the first time 'on-trail sledging'.  Apparently, we 'Australians' are always sticking our noses in other peoples business - ironically not the ones taking unsanctioned photos of complete strangers bathing...

To avoid any further altercations we tried to keep low profiles that night at dinner...

The next morning we retraced the horrid steps back down from Jhinu-danda, and traversed the mountainside towards the river at Himalpani in time for morning chiya. A local Gurung didi thought I needed some attention (admittedly I did; who forgets to bring a hair tie trekking I ask you?) and rearranged my hair into a nice braid.  When Auntie and Kul arrived, Kul suggested Auntie take a pony (yes, as in a small horse - amazing what this country offers at times) the rest of the journey...She decided against the idea, and as we slipped and slided our way down to the river and across the suspension bridge we were grateful at her decision...

a little man I fell in-love with...

The day's pace allowed for some witnessing, so we had several nice chats with local Gurungs along the way.  As I arrived out of breathe at the top of the stairs in Tolka, I met a lovely woman (her name was possibly:  Susilla or Sunita or Shristi or something starting with 'S-' ????) and her niece at the very first guesthouse (if anyone wants to do a return visit) where I collapsed.  We spoke for about half an our about who the Creator is?  what is His promise for our future? and do Christians eat chicken?

look closely

Alas, when Kul arrived he was determined this time to take the lead and push us farther onwards.  Some fellow trekkers and their guide suggested we stay at a guesthouse on the outer edge of Tolka boasting a hot tub and a beautiful view of Annapurna II and Dhaulagiri.  However, when Auntie and Kul caught up, Kul gently insisted again we continue to the next town.  Maybe we did not truly appreciate his advice at the time, but the next morning, waking up half an hour closer to our destination felt good.

The family we stayed with at Bedi-Kharka (more affectionately known as 'Betty-kaka') were evidently old friends of Kul - the grandfather addressed him as his 'son', which I found touching as Kul's father had passed away.  It is a nice aspect of the Nepali culture that the community adopts somewhat these children, especially from the same caste.  Kul had not looked so comfortable and happy as at this point.

They were a lovely family and exerted themselves to make sure we were comfortable.  Though equipped with just a 'bucket shower', they faithfully boiled water for all 7 of us princesses, and by the time we were all scrubbed up, our daal-bhat was served.  

The next morning inspired by Ai-chan and Misa-ji, I ventured to taste my first 'thukpa'^^^.  It was a glorious start to the morning, and we thus set out with fresh vigour to glimpse Dhaulagiri from the top of the pass.  

This final day was supposed to be an easy walk from Pothana to Phedi.  However, when we arrived at Pothana close to our estimated departure time, we soon realised the day would be much longer.  I was not so concerned about the time, but being behind schedule we invariably arrived at viewpoints just as the clouds had submerged the himal.  Thus we had to content ourselves with the mustard field laden foothills...

Dhampus

rustic house

Australia Camp?

A couple of wrong turns here and there and a few aching knees later, in a slow succession we all finally arrived in Phedi.   And by 3:00 pm we were piled into our mini-van ready to boom it back to KTM.

Before we left Pokhara, I was reminded of what quality shoppers Sara and Maryanne are...a 15 minute stop in search of heart designed lungis, and these girls did not come back empty handed.

Our ride home was 70% karaoke (courtesy of me and MJ) and 30% hindi pop...'ramailo bayo'  (very fun!)...ahhh - I miss karaoke...

The next day we showed the ladies off at our meeting.  Apparently Maryanne and I look like sisters - you know brown hair, whiter skin, same same... 

fresh from trek

introducing the local rebels

After successfully hunting down some more kurta fabric and organising the tailor, we headed down-town to Durbar Square.  Working our way through the pashmina and yak wool retailers we found ourselves in this little nook in Asaan in search of a 'two-toned' shawl for Sara (PS...Sara I have not been able to shake the pursuit!  I still look out for the perfect blue-green shawl!).  After bartering on a shawl, the 'sahuji" (shop-keeper) called us: 'sisters' and asked which congregation we were from.  When I asked him how he knew, he said we looked like sisters...That made us feel pretty great.

dust particles, us and a random in Durbar Square

Alan and I getting cosy

We ended our night on brownies at New Orleans Cafe, and then once again squeezed all 5 ladies into a taxi home...

And so began our last day together in Kathmandu.  Slowly starting our day with porridge, coffee and a chat, Sara and I then went to my beautiful study, Solinar.  Solinar's mother is Chettri and her father is Tamang, so she was explaining how at festival times she enjoys both cultures.  As you can see though she really suits the  traditional Tamang attire.

After leaving Solinar, we snuck in some last minute sneaky mo:mos (Sara's opinion:  'not bad, but nothing on DinTaiFung****!", and then spent the rest of the afternoon traversing the streets of Thamel in search of more yak wool and pashminas.  

Just time enough for one last quick, but deep and meaningful session, then we were in search once again for a taxi to airport.  Strangely enough we stumbled upon the previous night's driver, who found it amusing that we were once again, 5 ladies in his taxi...

And then they were gone...

Farewell lovelies!  Thanks for visiting.

Next stop:  Sydney!!!

* 'Digestives' - a bland kind of bikky^^^^

^ 'e-skul' - Nepali for 'school'

** 'Prashangsa' - Nepali for 'praise'

^^ 'alikati ukalo, alikati oralo' - Nepali for 'little bit up, little bit down'. In reality it means 'a lot uphill...'

*** 'Tooheys' - Aussie beer
^^^ 'thukpa' - Nepali/Tibetan noodle soup

**** 'DinTaiFung' - Taiwanese dumpling restaurant chain
^^^^'Bikky' - Australian for biscuit, cookie, and occasionally, money...

Houses of worship

Following a recent request to add some more experiences of working with our 'bhaibahini-haru' (brothers and sisters) here in Nepal, today as it happens I took the morning off to recover from just such an experience.  Yesterday a small army of 'estri-haru' (women) from Baneshwor went to help out at the 'nirman' (construction) of the new KH in Thamel.

After a quick coffee, bowl of porridge (did you get that mum!) and ah...load of washing, Ritsu and I joined the girls at Banny* chowk just after 7 (am) as the tempo was rolling up.  The ride to Thamel was a sleepy one (too earlier a Monday morning for my liking), but by the time we arrived I was AWAKE! and ready to get down to business ('that's why they call them business sox'...or just normal anklets - nothing special really).  Sara, your blue polo t-shirt made the scene complete though as I emerged from the changing area in the new version of myself, 'Jo-the-Builder' ('can we fix it?????'...yes, I am known to get into character from time to time).

We started our day on a spiritual theme, examining the day's text: 'Matthew 22:39', which was nicely tied into the bhai's entreaty for us to be peaceable with one another on the site, and to show consideration to not only each other but the neighbouring residents also.

The guest-builders were assigned yellow hard-hats (which I became quite fond of) and the 'nirmit-haru' (regulars), blue hard-hats.

team 'yellow'

The day was spent extracting 'kiila' (nails) from pre-used planks of wood, sanding the planks, sanding the roof frames, priming the roof frames and then painting the roof frames (ahhhh nothing like a spot of painting...and the proof thereof:  lots of paints stains! I even inherited a nice new beauty spot under my right eye - a definite crowd pleaser), cutting and then bending metal for some roof-frame related purpose.

Thus far, they have laid the foundation (very important: no one likes a house built on sand, or to be called a fool - Matthew 7:26), set the columns and are now preparing the frame for the roof - or so it seemed to me.  I'm not really a builder...Thamel Rajya Bawan is to be one storey with the 2nd school and bathroom at the rear.

me and Anishradda

I have been involved with KH construction and renos^ in the past, and have to comment that while the work is enjoyable and a nice diversion, and the company is encouraging and upbuilding, the food is always a memorable aspect to the experience.  Yesterday's 'khana' (food), was no less so.

As is our custom, the food is also provided in a voluntary spirit.  Yesterday's cook was 'Sri'-bhai (yes, as in 'Sri Lanka').  Sri was even willing to impart some of his culinary secrets to his assistant, our lovely upstairs, Misa H.  Misa now knows that scrunching the 'saag' (spinach) when washing makes it cook faster.  We have thus designated her our new saag-chef...anytime we need saag in a hurry, she's a our girl!

scrunching ze saag (insert French accent here)

'kasto chito jaancha ay!'
the day's slogan:  'look how fast it goes!'
NB stolen quote from, Wonders of Creation DVD

12 bajyo (o'clock) and khana was served:

Daal-bhat (24 hr power**), 'achaar' (Nepali pickle), 'massu' (meat), 'tarkari' (veges), and more bhat...

Kenji-ji-lai bhok lagyo?

And then back to work.

sunnies + hard-hat + kurta-surwal + respiratory mask
 = Japanese!
PS somebody lost a shoe?

It was lovely getting to know some of the full-time workers.  One bhai, "Jeet", learnt the truth when he was working in Malacca, Malaysia.  After he returned he started pioneering and is now serving in Bhaktapur^^ congregation.  He is a very zealous and appreciative bhai, with a great sense of humour - always useful when a welder is around...

Ritsu putting her back,
I mean legs, into it

officially this one
was 'bango'-ed
- bent

the site...

The experience made me excited for our 'Rajya Bawan' (KH) construction project, commencing this coming January.  Some sisters in our congregation have donated their beautiful garden so that Baneshwor mandali too can have a house of worship.

Shanta and her beautiful garden/soon to be, Rajya Bawan->

Now there is 'a cheerful giver' (2 Corinthians 9:7)

* 'Banny' - an affectionate name for Baneshwor
^ 'Renos' - Australian for renovations
**  'Dalbhat 24 hr power' - See 'Meet the Parents' post for further information
^^  Bhaktapur is a small city just outside of the ringroad.  Before the Gurkha king came and overthrew what is now Kathmandu, there were formerly three separate Newari kingdoms: Lalitpur (where our bethel office is currently located), Basantapur (CBD of KTM), and Bhaktapur.  In Bhaktapur mandali there are currently c. 20 publishers, however, the population is c. 550,000.  Ke garne????  "beg the master of the harvest to send out more workers..." - Matthew 9:37, 38