meeting the parents

I assured mum and dad that 10 days would be enough time to get a taste of Nepal.  And we did rather well I would say considering I have been here for now over 8 months and there still much to see, discover and experience.

After an 18 hour hike via Hong Kong and Bangladesh (as you do...), they arrived safely in the 'Land of Mt Everest', though tired and with understandably swollen ankles.  Thus they seemed nicely surprised to see we have running water, a considerable amount of power, beds and a western toilet...Somewhat different to what mum met 44 years ago, when she married dad and 3 days later finished her honeymoon in PNG.

After unloading the masses of requests and deliveries from Australia, including a lamb shoulder, ricotta cheese and an assortment of Darrell Lea goodies (thank you sooo much Kerry and Marc, the chocolate bullets seriously made my day!), we said goodnight.  I felt like a child again in the warmth of knowing my loving parents were nearby.

'Blooming Kids'**

The next day eager to soak up the surrounds mum and dad woke fairly early, and I, eager to soak up the time with them, pulled myself out of bed and commenced our 7 month catch up.

It seems in the years living in Leichhardt (Sydney's Inner West, and cafe epicentre) we have grown like-minded when it comes to good coffee and good conversation (which is often dependent on the former)...Thus our first excursion out of Arniko Marg, Battish Putali* (our street) was to Thamel for coffee.

After an exciting corolla-meets-4WD-taxi ride avoiding 'jam', we arrived. No sooner had we settled into our cappuccinos at New Orleans^, mum and dad had whipped out their iphones, connected to the wi-fi and I was left looking pitifully at my prehistoric sonyerricson with a scratched up screen and a semi-broken back.  I could not help but smile thinking that the 72 year olds of this world can been so technologically savvy.  The waiters and baristas also appeared impressed.

It was so good to talk tete a tete.   I have decided that my parents are not just my parents but they are great people and great friends.  They make me laugh (not always intentionally) and they stimulate me spiritually and mentally.

After a double-sitting^^ Alana and I tore ourselves away from the folks and hot-footed it to college.  On arrival, Mukundraji was upset I had not brought the parentals with me, as he was the subsequent days when I also came parentless.   Ke garne?

That night I cooked up the lamb and we introduced 'ma n pa' to some of our congregation over a semi-traditional Australian/English roast dinner.  We had met Bro and Sis Tachikoa (two Japanese missionaries) in PNG last year at the branch dedication so it was nice to hear from their perspective the difference in assignments.  Before he was married Bro Tachikoa had served in a beautiful place in PNG called Lae, but despite the fresh fish, he found it comparatively hard.  Dad now ponders had Nepal been open in the '50s when he left Australia whether he would have chosen to come here instead?!

Left to right:
Nachuiko T, Misa H, Margarita, Papito, Ai, Lynn, Rumiko T, Alana, Yoi

The next morning mum, dad and I left this town behind us and took a bus to the muchly anticipated, beautiful Pokhara...When Alana first mentioned the idea of coming to Nepal to me, it was with the intention of living in Pokhara, not Kathmandu, so I was eager to see what all the hot fuss was about...

This is what the fuss was all about...

Phewa Taal

It is amazing how water draws me...be it a river, a lake, a pool even, or my beloved Pacific Ocean...it truly calms me.  So when I see scenes such as the images below, Isaiah 48:17, 18 holds so much meaning...

Our first morning in Pokhara, dad woke me to show me Machaapuchure (the 'fish tail' mountain) peaking through the clouds from the rooftop of our hotel.  I become overly excited these days when I see snow-capped mountains, so even though the mountain was visible for little over an hour, it was a definite highlight!

'how's the serenity...'

Dad and I were not the only early risers that morning.  A couple were also on the rooftop, reading together.  At first in my dazed and confused semi-awake state I did not take any notice.  But when I my masala chiya kicked in, and I registered something in their low tones about 'Paul' and 'persecution', I turned around to peer at the book in hand.  It did not look familiar, but having tuned into their Australian accent, we realised our suspicions were correct, they were in fact, reading the Bible...'Nice way to enjoy you daily Bible reading', I commented.  They were from Yass (NSW) of all places and had been volunteering at an orphanage for a couple of months.  It is amazing the diversity of people you meet travelling.

Phewa Taal from our rooftop

We did not get too far that morning, about 200 metres down the street to the Black and White cafe.  Their couches, cappuccinos and masala omelettes kept us occupied for another good few hours - as did our conversation...hmmm in this respect I definitely take after Margarita!

When we did finally shift back into first gear, we decided to head to the 'International Mountain Museum'.  If you per chance find yourself in Pokhara, it is worth a visit.  Mum reminisced over her childhood encounter with Sir Edmund Hillary, back in Teranaki (insert Kiwi accent here), whilst dad and I climbed the replica of Mt Manaslu (c 10 metres).  Good times.

That night we were the sole guests at a traditional Nepali restaurant: 'The Boomerang Bar'...sadly there were more dancers than we were patrons, so it was not the most passionate of performances.  Poor dad barely got them to smile despite his enthusiastic clapping and photo snapping...

In the wee small hours of the next morning, dad and I ventured up to Sarangkot for the sunrise view of the Annapurna mountain range.  Unfortunately Machaapuchare had stage fright and would not show her face...

a thousand and something steps later,
I was glad I was wearing my 'DALBHAT 24 HR POWER'*** t-shirt 

view of Pokhara from Sarangkot

After one last Black and White cappuccino we left Pokhara and the Himal nestled behind in the clouds and set out for the plains...

Destination:  Chitwan National Park

The drive to Chitwan was really pleasant, mostly mountainous with a post-monsoon luminous green sheening the landscape.  We followed the Trishuli River, spotting white-water rafters, locals washing their clothes and occasionally even themselves.  

About an hour out of Chitwan everything suddenly flattened out.  We immediately felt the presence of a lot more bicycles, and animal-drawn carts.  It is surprising in such a short distance how everything changes in Nepal.  Even the people are different.  Coming from Pokhara where the native people are have more Mongolian features, the people of the Chitwan region are a mixture of the Indian Brahmin and Chetri castes, and Tharu people, who have an almost Amazonian look about them...

   

stolen from Big Jim

also stolen -> nice work dad!

At our lodge our 'program manager' was shocked to hear that we would not be doing the elephant safari, and proceeded to plead with me to reconsider.  Being partial to the idea I broached the idea with Margarita, and was surprised to learn that while dad and I had been hiking in Sarangkot she had been convinced by a local that the elephant safari was a 'must-do', and had thus decided to go...

And that was that...

the three amigos (or two and a half...
dad is the hat in the background)

Sadly my camera took a hard hit when I dropped it from the top of the elephant (insert slow motion 'nooooooooooo' here).  My photos of our safari were thus reduced to sonyericsson quality, thus will not be appearing in any upcoming issues of National Geographic...

that there is a rhinoceros!

Our elephant-driver (if you would call him that, I am not sure what the 'technical' name would be) mahout^^^ was a character.  It seems he came over from India with the elephants.  When I tried to speak Nepali to him his standard reply was, 'ok' (in a 'whatever you say' manner...he he), although he was pretty fluent when it came to his numbers (wink wink).  The elephants also only understood Hindi.  When the Nepalis drivers (?)mahouts gave commands, they had to speak Hindi  - I know, amazing right?!  It reminded me of that movie, 'Water for Elephants', the elephant only understood the commands in Polish...beautiful!  Our drivermahout was very gentle with the elephants, making sure that we were balanced so that we would not hurt our beautiful chariot.  It was nice to see that his years of experienced had not made him impatient and cruel with the animals.

isn't she pretty with all her make-up???

That night we met up with a local sister, a friend of mum and dad's friends from Melbourne.  Sis Laxmi had been in Melbourne for several months when her daughter-in-law gave birth.  Though she does not speak much English she apparently had a real trans-lingual connection with the sister.  Another example of how love for Jehovah breaks down barriers...She made us a lovely traditional 'daal-bhat' and would have made us stay (like Lydia) had we not been committed to a 6:30 am start the next morning...

Sis Laxmi

Next on the agenda was a morning 'Jungle walk safari'...

river crossing

We spotted another rhino which was exciting, but a little unnerving considering we were no longer safe in the height of our elephant perch.  The guides were both local, Tharu, and had an incredible knowledge of their land and animals.  They pointed out all kinds of birds I had never heard of, except for the 'Kingfisher'...alas, all of our cameras except the iphones and our guide's mobile phone were dead by this stage so we were not able to capture the royal blueness of the little bird...

mum spots the rhino

shot on a mobile through binoculars->
how did we get to this point?

After the safari came Chitwan's highlight:  Elephant bathing -> 'ananda lagyo' (joyous)

elephants having a bath...

me having a bath...

Being this close with the animals, and such incredible animals, made me think, I am an 'animal person' after all...Hands up whose looking forward to this new system????

And then it was time to say goodbye...back to Kathmandu.  

We had kept our driver waiting for a couple of hours so in an effort to make up the time he had lost he made us fully aware on the journey back that it was in fact a 4WD  not a corolla he was driving...

In true Smithy-style we managed to jam-pack the next few days with public talks, studies, colds, monkey-temples, witnessing, bethel, Durbar squares, an earthquake, a 44th anniversary (insert applause for Big Jim and Margarita), slide-shows, communal baking, life-experience swapping and then...after one final trip out to the airport, as quickly as they came, they were gone...

s

mum and I at Swayambhunath

Swayambhunath Stupa

aka the 'monkey temple'

"let's go fly a...'changa'"

dapper locals

and the token sleeping dog to make the scene complete

Tea with Bro Kenji and Sis Hiroko (Japanese bethelites)
I like this photo...nice and candid!

mum and dad's 44th anniversary...about an hour after the earthquake

'happy anniversary! and yay! we're alive!'

outside Dwarika's...

*  'Battish Putali' - Nepali for '32 butterflies'.  Apparently Nepal is home to over 800 varieties of butterflies, 32 of which must have been present one day in our neighbourhood...
^ 'Blooming Kids' - a local school.  Nepali school names are hilarious.  My personal favourite is 'Kangaroo Kids'
** New Orleans - a local cafe; not the city -> although the city gives the cafe a kind of magnetism and they do have live music every Wednesday night...NB I wrote this post under its shelter and under the influence of its cappuccino
^^A 'double-sitting' strictly occurs at a great cafe with great friends and requires two great coffees in succession.  A 'triple-sitting' is a rarity these days but is an even more beautiful experience.
Caution: only the experienced coffee drinkers should attempt this.  The less experienced may experience sweaty palms, heart palpitations and extreme loss of time.
*** 'Dalbhat 24 hr Power' - this is my most favourite purchase in Nepal thus far. 24 hour power does not exist in Nepal, unless you eat daal-bhat (lentils and rice) apparently...
^^^ 'Mahout' - Courtesy of my Nepali girls, Amreeta and Solinar, I can now give you the official name for the 'elephant driver'

Malaysian Interlude

I apologise for yet another long reprieve in the Nepal Diaries, and...perhaps all correspondence these past few weeks.  But thanks to the new service year, and a new packet of Vegemite I am officially back 'on the grid'.


There is a lot to be mentioned either side of our little Malaysian jaunt but I thought I would keep this post strictly 'Malaaaaaysian'.

Still zipping my luggage as the taxi arrived, we forgot to tell our landlady we would be 'going abroad' (incurring a 10 day private investigation we later found out) but made it to the airport without forgetting too much else.

For the first in my aerial history we were bumped up to business class (yesssss!!!!).  As we rocked up to the 'Shangri-La' (aka Business Class) the excitement dissipated and the reality that we were only flying Nepal Airlines hit as we were denied our Bloody Marys and TVs...'jindagi yestai ho'*

Did I mention our flight left at 11:30 pm?  So we arrived at KL half comatose and I spent the journey from the airport suspended somewhere between our friend's back-seat and Neverland.  A couple of hours later Alana and I regained consciousness and, following the lady in the know, (our Japanese host-mother), we set out to our destination...the hairdressers -> 'ananda lagyo' (I feel prettyhappy)!  Seriously, the head massage is one of life's most understated pleasures....(insert bliss here)

Once my locks were tressed we drove to our first Malay mall (they are a bit of a novelty in these parts).  We met up with our host father and sauntered around gazing in shop windows at the life I had forgotten about these passed 6 months - not to worry, a coffee soon lifted my spirits!  Then after some serious 'umming and aahhing', I interpreted Alana's cravings and the decision was finally made -> Chinese food... Shivers!  I forgot how good beef tastes!

Eager to shake the jet-lag induced red-eye before the 'adiiveshan' (DC) we started our eyelid examination early that night...

DC Day 1 -> I do not want to spoil the excitement of the program (indeed, even if I wanted to, I am not sure that would be kosher), so I will keep my observations atmosphere-centred - 'tik cha?' (ok?)

with some Tamil sisters and Juri (right)

The 'adiiveshan' was a perfect introduction to the cultural cross section which makes Malaysia Malaysia.  As we walked into the hall our eyes met with Tamils,  Chinese, Malays, ex-pats, Africans and our ever so beloved Nepalis!  Another beautiful example of the international brotherhood.

Everyone we met were super friendly and slightly shocked to hear we were visiting from Nepal...especially taken aback were the Nepalis themselves -> we don't look typically Nepali, although, I have had Indian actress before;)

faces of Nepal

There are about a million Nepalis working in Malaysia.  They are mostly men and generally come to Malaysia for a couple of hard, lonely years, working and sending money home, before returning back to Nepal.  Partly to do with their plight many are attracted to the kingdom message and make great efforts to study, attend meetings, sammelans and 'adiiveshans'.  Their smiles reminded Alana and I why we love Nepalis so much!

A bhai from our congregation had also come to help translate the program into Nepali.  The Nepalis were able to sit with the rest of the audience whilst listening to the translation on their radios (tres futuristic).  Those who had been studying longer would help the newly interested ones find the scriptures and help them to understand different points.  It was really something to witness.

That night we tried our first 'banana leaf curry'...

la!

DC Day 2 ->  Aside from the drama, the highlight of Day 2 was the baptism.  Out of the 1,718 people who were in attendance, 18 were baptised (2 of which were Nepali).  My only sorrow was that they played a favourite song of mine (No. 59 - not as yet available in Nepali), but due to a bad case of laryngitis (think Barry White meets Louis Armstrong) I could only manage the baritone sections - I scared myself a couple of times so considering the average female singer in Nepal sounds like a 10 year old boy, who knows what the Nepalis thought...

In the evening, owing to the Japanese' apparent love of Chinese food and dislike of laksa (Aussies excluded), we had our first taste of Malay-style Chinese, ban-ku-teh...

 'ban-ku-teh'

DC Day 3->  The last day at the 'adiiveshan' we bumped into a couple of familiar faces....Australians, what gypsies we are?!

Sharma->
couldn't miss this gal in a crowd

We even enjoyed the public talk in our mother tongue, Australian.  How's about those toes ay?  Was anyone else thinking China???

33 Nepalis attended on the Sunday and as per usual, warmed everyone with their comradery and pearly whites...

is this a pattern^?

After the 'adiivashan' we went back to Bro. Allen and Sis. Yinsin's (the spiritual 'amabuwa' [mum and dad] to many of the Nepalis in KL).  One of the group's long-standing bhais was returning to Nepal a couple of days later so we spent the evening between blindfolds (literally) and gripping life stories -  'dherai ramailo bayo' (very enjoyable)

We set out the following day for Malaysia Bethel in Malacca, about 2.5 hours from KL.  On route we stopped at the 'golden arches' and had our first McDonald's experience since Australia...It was Simon's first time, but perhaps not his last?  Nepal's latest PM is a Maoist so I guess it will depend on whether he too enjoys the odd, Capitalist, 'Big Mac'...

I promise I took more photos of Bethel than this but apart from the outdoor bathrooms, this painting is what I really remember.

Phillip and the 'eunuch' were a lot erhm

 stronger than I remembered them to be...

After Bethel we drove to Port Dickson just in time to watch the 'suryasta' (sunset) and Simon dip his feet in the 'samudra' (sea) for the first time...

The next day we attempted to do some street witnessing but got waylaid browsing the markets instead - how I came out empty handed, I still don't understand...so sorry kids, no postcards:(

Next up was 'the Lake Garden'...where I glimpsed for the first time the signature of KL's skyline, the Petronas Twin Towers^^ (or 'the twins', as I like to call them)...

'the twins' from a distance...

And we ended our day with a not-so-signature, but nonetheless amazingly mito sushi experience....

'soba'
(insert slurping noise here)

sushi oh-oh

The next day I went with my 'you deserve it Jo' mantra and treated myself to a massage...I can't remember much after that...

'the twins' in a puddle
-who says Sarah's the creative one in our family?

After a few days in the big smoke, we fixed our ocean nostalgia with an overnighter at Pelau Pangkor, an island about 3 hours north of KL...soooo good to be in the salt air and sea again...

Praise Jah

paparazza

And then back to the mainland...

Our last couple of days we spent exploring more of KL's idiosyncrasies, such as 'cendol' (below), and clandestine field service meetings.

Malay delicacy: coconut milk with green

 spaghetti-like jelly - I didn't get around to trying it...

'phalphul' (or as Makundra-ji*** would say = 'froots')

Before we finished explaining to the 'Shangri-La' protectorate that 'once you have been in first-class...'^^^, we found ourselves back in coach class surrounded by a sea of Nepali men returning to the motherland.  Thus ended our Malaysian Interlude...

But then the Symphony began to play...

Part 2 -> Enter the Himalaya

sweet home KTM

*  'jindagi yestai ho' - Nepali for:  'life is like this' (always stated in a somewhat resigned tone)
^  See previous post for more 'blindfold' moments
** Aussie for 'swimmers'
^^  For the trivial pursuit fans:  the tallest twin buildings in the world (NB accurate at the time of publication)
*** 'Mukundra-ji' -> coming soon
^^^ For the Seinfeld fans:

putting Chulman on the map!

In our efforts to bridge the gap between us and our Nepali peers Alana and I have gone back to basics...

When you were a child what were the things you remember most about going to parties?  For me it had to be the following:

• fairy bread
• cordial (purely because I wasn't allowed any - the word 'hyperactive' comes to mind)
• 'pass the parcel'
• cake
• and...'pin the tale on the donkey'

Last year I had a kids party for my little friend Miki and was elated to find out that kids are still getting a considerable kick out of these rather simple activities...So when we found out our friend Chulman was being assigned as a special pioneer to the Terai in the far west of Nepal, we thought a farewell party was in order...And what better way to party, than to 'pin Chulman on the Terai'...

How?

What you will need:

• two large pieces of cardboard
• sticky-tape*
• thick markers
• a good drawer (enter Angena and Alana)
• a map of Nepal
• various cuts-out of tigers, elephants, rhinos and other Nepal related items
• scissors (to cut out the little 'Chulmans')

a Chulman

Owing to the efforts and skill of Angena, Alana, Anishradda and Anamika we finally had ourselves a giant map of Nepal (not to scale - Sagarmatha^ apparently isn't the highest mountain?!) and were ready to 'rock the party'...Fearing that it might be a massive flop, we had a sneaky 'pass the parcel' parcel on hand in case of an emergency...

the real slim shady...

The first player was 'Dillu', Baneshwor's tallest and perhaps quirkiest bhai.  He seemed confused when I tied my scarf around his head and started to spin him around, but he managed to 'pin' or rather to 'stick' Chulman fairly accurately on his assignment....'hmmm how are we going to keep this game going?????'  After a couple of close encounters, it became apparent that these thoughts were not ours alone when our guests decided to intervene and get creative!...When I say I creative, perhaps, rough is the more appropriate word!...

When Chulman's little brother Mukhti almost ended the game early, the brothers decided to make a human barricade between the next player, Yuvraj, and the wall, then, to completely disorientate him, they decided slapping him from all different directions would be a good idea...This tactic merely prolonged the process...So when our service overseer, Simon (as in 'de Beauvoir'), next appeared in the ring, Yuvraj got his own back.  This time the bhaiharu ('brothers') led Simon (glasses atop his blindfold) into another room, pushing him in every direction except that guarded by the human barricade...After running into a table, the window and Yuvraj several times, Simon came close to throwing in the towel, or should I say, the scarf...but was not permitted.  Finally, Simon, (perhaps prompted by childhood memories) rose against his nemesis and penetrated through 'the great wall' to the map...only to land Chulman in a neighbouring province...bichaarai ('poor thing')...

Yuvraj

Simon

not the Terai

diversion tactics

With a sort of poetic justice, Chulman, despite having the map relocated, rallied forth, and pinned - I mean, stuck - his Chulman perfectly on Mahendranagar...good to see Nepali kids these days know their geography...

'there's no place like home
there's no place like home'

So the night was success.  Alas, we fear we have set the bar too high and cannot top 'pin Chulman on the Terai'.  We may have to turn in our party-gloves....unless there are some other tricks of the trade you might care to share...

* AKA: botch, scotch tape, sellotape

^ Local name for Mt Everest

butter, bahinis and the bull

butter


Lost in translation:  it's constant theme these days, but perpetually entertaining

Instead of, 'Ratna-didi, did you go preaching today?', I ask, 'Ratna-didi, did you pray today?'...Rather than, 'Solinar is 12 years old', I point out, 'Solinar is 12 o'clock'...yes, it happens all the time but this is how we learn, right?...through our mistakes, right? right?

An experience the other week though took the cake...

After witnessing late one evening Alana had decided to reward me yet again with the beloved 'A's Bread'n'Butter Pudding'...of which the essential ingredients are clearly: bread and butter...

At the store, the bread, at arm's length, proved no problem to obtain, the butter, however, was another story...

Unaccustomed to our accents, when we requested some 'butter', the lovely shop assistant replied with a smile and a negative shake of the head (interpretation:  'I no understand you'), to which we then slowly and emphatically repeated the same request. Alas, again we were met with the same head shake - 'bujhdina'*...

Remembering I had come across this word recently, I then turned to Alana and said...'hmmm, I'm pretty sure it starts with an "M"', and then mumbled something out like, 'mahhoghawighaogh?' - no success...

Fretting I might miss out on the promised pud, I then took the liberty to look inside the fridge.  Seconds later, butter in hand, I turned to the didi in triumph who then joyfully exclaimed: 'oh bhut-tar!'.  In disbelief I ask, 'but didi, what's the word in Nepali?', to which she answered:  'bhut-tar!' (heavy emphasis on the tongue touching the palate when you pronounce this people- imagine you are ordering 'bhut-tar chicken in Bombay')...Alana and I turned to each other and roared with laughter - you're imagining some convoluted new word to remember, instead you have your English corrected...

'I can't believe it's not butter...'

Walking down the street seconds later I drew Alana's attention to a fan I had just spotted for sale...excitedly she bounded up to the shop assistant and asked for the price, R1700.  Alana, as it appeared, was not born yesterday, and optimistically suggested, 'dhai, discount chaina?' ('dhai, how 'bout a discount?')  Happy to confirm that, 'yes, fan made in China', he look puzzled as we once again made a public spectacle bursting into hysterics at the day's linguistic feats....ahhh good times...

Word from the wise:  if you can't laugh at yourself -> take the next flight home

bahinis

BFFs: Malati + Anamika

For those who know me you would know that I am the youngest of three girls, and therefore, though am little sister to two big sisters, have no little sisters of my own...

On coming to Nepal, one blessing I have found is a few little sisters/bahinis in the ministry and in the congregation...

One bahini, Amrita, is an ek-dam ('very') special 18 yr old girl who my flatmate asked me to call on.  Ritsu had mentioned something about Amrita wanting to know if 'true love'** existed but I did not take much notice at the time...When we met though, sparks flew, and I knew at 'first sight' that this girl was special.

I can't relay all of our discussions but one expression of hers is particularly memorable.  A couple of weeks ago we were studying and I asked her, 'why should we keep looking for the answers to life's most important questions?', she answered: 'because I want my thirst quenched'...Seriously she had me at 'hello!'


Another bahini, Arti, when asked the same question said: 'because if we don't we will be barren inside...'

It is moments like these which make struggling with language the rest of the week a joy.

The bahinis in the congregation also make life interesting.

Like all of us, different sides of our personalities can be seen inside and outside of the kingdom hall.  Inside the hall we all appear to be good girls...It is not until you get us outside and apparently feed us momos that we take on our alter-egos...

by day...
first time as a 'Ghar-dani'**

For example, Angena-bahini looks sweet and timid by day, but hand her a permanent marker and a heart-shaped balloon (don't ask), come night-time this is what can happen...

by night...

Another little bahini in the congregation, Anamika, has worked herself into a little place in my heart.  She recently got baptised and is very serious about living up to her dedication.  I asked her to come on my bible study with Sandhya the other day, and I was really touched at her earnestness and passion as she explained about Isaac and Abraham (a story I honestly can say I wasn't looking forward to explaining...).  Afterwards she told me she that she wants to serve where the need is greater when she is older (with her bestie, Malati) so she plans to use this time to 'practise' (insert urge to squeeze cheeks).

and the bull...

You have no doubt heard that Nepal is a predominantly Hindu country of which the 'holy cow' is of great importance...Although not allowed to kill the cow for food or clothing, not much care is given these poor animals.  True, people keep out of their way and let them roam the streets without harassment, but occasionally when you see them rummaging through rubbish, the thought occurs that perhaps a little more human interaction would not hurt.  Thus was my thought one morning recently.

I was witnessing with my friend Sayara when we passed, what I later realised was actually a bull, and a sudden impulse came to me to share some prem ('love') and greet it...On approaching, I turned slightly, pressed my hands together and said: 'namaste'^ to the bull...well, the jury is out on whether it was annoyed by the salutation, or rather, moved by a long-suppressed desire to be loved...Whichever the case, on being acknowledged with a sudden head-butt, I think I'll be remaining silent next encounter...

mooooooooooooooooo

* 'Bujhdina' - Nepali for: 'I don't understand'
^ 'Namaste' - Nepali greeting.  Its original meaning in Sanskrit is:  'I bow to the god within you'...

**  It just so happens that I did have 'the' conversation about 'true love' with Amrita.  I can't say I felt completely equipped for it, and when she brought up 'Romeo and Juliet's' star-crossed love, the only thoughts which came to mind were scenes from dad's wedding ceremonies...(hmmm probably too complicated to discuss the different Greek words for love right?) - thank goodness for the Young People Ask book

^^ Ghar-dani - Nepali for 'householder'

a good samaritan

'hold the phone peoples, Jo has written two posts in one month!'

Alana and I have had a pretty 'blah'* week owing to the Nepali bureaucracy, or should I say, bureaucrazzzzy, involved with registering for our language course...I'm not going to go into the 'ins n outs' of the saga, cause I really don't care to relive it, but you need a little context to truly appreciate this story....

So yesterday we set out to accomplish the final task of opening a bank account...(We need proof of substantial dosh^ in a Nepali bank account in order to register blah blah blah).

My task: Get the 'moolah'** and meet Chasty at Bank of Kathmandu at 1400.

So I forgot that I had asked her to mind my wallet for me, didn't I? and only remembered when I arrived at the atm and reached into my bag to find, nothing - doh!....so I trudge back up to the bank...the sun is beating down, onlookers are looking on, my frustration is frustrating...why do I do this to myself?????!

Take 2:  Wallet in hand this time, I walk back to the atm, get out the dough^^ and split...

Meanwhile back at Bank of Kath'n'Kathmandu, someone has finally cut us some slack and Alana has opened her account...minutes later the greenbacks*** are in the account and we are walking out of the bank in jubilation!

We are moseying on down to our local haunt, Cafe Kaldi, (on the same road I was now traversing for the 5th time that day...) when all of sudden my thong (Australian for 'flip flop'...that's how we say folks, you just have to accept it!) broke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  What to do???  I am standing on the side of the road considering, 'do I just wear the one thong?  do I discard both thongs and walk barefoot?  do I stay put and let Alana go and buy me some new thongs?'...did I mention the sun beating down, and being a mere hop away from the 'promise land', a land flowing in milk and iced-coffee???

This is my predicament when I hear a voice from behind me, 'here, take my shoes!'...I turn around and this Nepali guy in the middle of the foot-path has taken off his thongs and is insisting I take them...'don't worry I'll buy new ones, don't worry just take them'...I am speechless!!!....Technically, shouldn't I just go and buy some new ones???  Who does that?  Would you do it?  I wouldn't...But they are off his feet and there is no going back!...I decide to go with it.  I slip them on, chuckle at the fact they are way too big, get a picture taken (a small price to pay...) and proceed across the road to my iced-cappuccino...

And here endeth my story...I haven't ever been given the shirt off someones back, but I can now say I have received the sole off their feet...good times!

Til my next post - 'How to treat tinea in Kathmandu' - Say hi to your mum for me...

* 'blah' - average, slightly annoying, tiring, frustrating, mediocre
^ 'dosh' - slang for money
** moolah' - slang for money
^^^ 'dough' - slang for money; also used to make pizza; not a doe, not a female deer
*** 'greenbacks' - slang for money