Friday, March 18, 2011

Welcome to Nepal - week 1

After I had finally been granted my visa, collected my baggage and cleared customs, my first thoughts were, 'I wonder if anyone is still waiting for me?'

And so I was surprised when I was greeted by the below fanfare!  The girls had been out at an anniversary party and managed to coerce David (the only person we know in Kathmandu that has a car and just happens to work for the UN) to pick me up in style...nice work ladies! (Although, I was secretly hoping for a terminal dance...) 

UN escorts

 When we arrived home my new housemates, Sarah (Swiss), Ritsu (Japanese) and Chasty presented me with my very first personalised giant cookie, with 'Welcome Jo' written in Nepali...hmmm yes, I liked the girls immediately!  And then we had our first 'getting to know you' session over tea and cookie-pieces...

giant 'welcome Jo' cookie

 The next morning (Saturday), I went to my first meeting at my new congregation in Baneshwor.  I did not understand much in the meeting itself, but I was excited to meet so many new faces and be surrounded by the language.  Everyone was very friendly and asked lots of questions, at which I turned my head towards Ritsu and appealed for translation...early days, early days...


Casa

That night Alana, Ritsu and I hit the streets and walked to Thamal, the tourist quarter, and coolest quarter of Kathmandu...

Thamal

 In Thamal I had my first Nepali...pizza!...disgraceful I know but the beer was local at least, and well, Nepalis apparently know how to make pizza; who am I to discourage the practise;)


Gorkha beer

After dinner Alana attempted to take us on a tour to Durbar Square...but we got a little lost and decided to leave it for another time...When we got home, I met our honorary housemates, the Allens (a mother, father and son from Kent) and Ric (a lovely brother in a nearby congregation from the North of England), who we found deeply engrossed in a game of Trivial Pursuit by candle-light...as we joined them, I remembered I had never liked Trivial Pursuit...'ke garne?' (the Nepali equivalent for 'what d'ya do?')

The next day, was my Nepali witnessing inauguration.  Our territory was an area outside of the ring road  of Kathmandu Valley, tagged 'Pepsi Cola' by the locals.  Ritsu loves this territory as the people are very humble and respectful.  I am told she has over 20 return visits in this area alone.

I was assigned to work with a young pioneer brother called 'Chulman'.  Chulman and his younger brother and sister, Mukhti and Malatti, are alone in the truth and live comparatively far from kingdom hall, yet the effort they all make to get to the meetings, to go witnessing and to participate in the congregation is truly moving.

Chulman's induction included:
  • a broken Nepali-English conversation about our respective backgrounds;
  • making me do my share of doors without interruption until it was abundantly clear I had no response for the householders' questions (I averaged about 15 seconds);
  • asking me to read a paragraph in Nepali at his Bible Study; and
  • asking for my comments at the end of each paragraph discussed

...hard yakka...but I cannot wait until we work together again!

After witnessing, we went back to the Allens for our first Nepali lesson.  Luc, the son, is our teacher, and quite a linguist it would seem.  He speaks Italian to our Italian-Kenyan classmate  (Tiffany), German to Sarah, and I am also told he speaks French...to the French I presume...

Our class involved activities such as counting in Nepali whilst hitting a balloon, acting out different verbal commands, ie  'daat maajhnuhos' - 'clean your teeth', acting out a presentation for the ministry and learning, ah-hem: 'the universal language generator'...Sadly, I am under oath and cannot post all the techniques!   I can say though, the class was great and I believe our teacher knows his stuff.

After class, we rewarded ourselves with samosas!...did I mention I love this place????

first samosa

Then it was Monday.

Monday in Nepal is our sabbath, ie. day of rest.  Yet, the excitement of my arrival had not yet worn off, so after resting for the morning, Alana and I set out once again for Thamal, with the scent of Illy coffee willing us on.  On route, I observed some differences in the traffic control (or lack of) to Australia.  As you can see below, this intersection has made the existing traffic lights redundant, relying on the man in the middle of the road to direct the flow... hilarious! 



traffic lights

On the way home, we picked up a clothes rack, and endeavoured not to draw attention to ourselves...we were not successful!


when in Rome...


Monday night was a memorable night for a few reasons, but foremost for being my maiden-sari-voyage...

There are three beautiful Japanese sisters in Baneshwor congregation, Misa, Arisa and Sauri.  The middle sister, Arisa, has now left Nepal as she is getting married to a brother serving in Cambodia.  So as a surprise for Arisa and her fiance, we all dressed up in saris...


me, Ristu, Anishradda and Sauri

It was a really enjoyable night, being able to get to know some of the local brothers and sisters a little better in a different setting...it is not every day you are dressed by people you do not know... quite the 'ice-breaker'...

Then it was Tuesday...Tuesday is our meeting night, and after the meeting I was introduced to yet another tradition here... post-meeting momos!  This particular Tuesday was quite chilly so we resorted to employ the mullets to warm our noggins.  As you can see in the picture below, we did not have any 'batti'* so we used our head-torches etc, to ensure we didn't get any hair, I mean nylon, in our food...bon appetite!

first momos

Sahs and Ritz

Wednesday, Thursday and probably Friday, we went witnessing, drank lots of chiya (chai) and most likely met up with the Allens...thus ended my first week in Nepal.


*Batti - electricity (literally 'lamp').  As Nepal exports its electricity to India, the country is left with a limited supply.  We have about 10 hours of electricity per day and thus become quite creative in the off-hours...

Monday, March 14, 2011

Kata to Kathmandu


Do forgive me readers, I realise that today marks the 1 month anniversary since my last post, where I left you on the warm shores of Kata Beach.  Since I arrived in my new digs life has been fairly constant (in a good way), but add to that no internet (connected to my computer at least) and I seemed to develop writers block.  I promise this will not happen again.

Before I go into what exactly has been keeping me so occupied, let us cut back for a moment...

Kata Noi Beach



view from local bus
My time in Phuket was well distributed between soaking up Vitamin D on the beach, savouring seriously good Thai at my local canteena, discovering different haunts around the island, meeting up with the local English congregation, seeking out legitimate massage parlours (avoiding 'the happy beginnings/happy endings' style massages which are pretty common in the south and are barely more than a soft rub with a few knuckle cracks here and there - slightly disappointing) and...attempting to go witnessing…


taxi Thai-style
The Sunday after I arrived I had an adventure making my way into Phuket town for the meeting.  I set out with high spirits on a local bus into town and then took a motorbike taxi (my favourite mode of transport in Thailand) to the meeting – very cool!  When I arrived (on time might I add) I found the kingdom hall packed with brothers and sisters from all over the world: Japan, Austria, Germany, Denmark, Lebanon, the UK, France, Australia... some in Phuket on vacation, others, indefinitely.  It felt like a mini international convention with lots of excitement in air.

I met a lovely brother from Wollongong who had just moved to Phuket after serving in Myanmar for the last 4 years with his wife.  After the meeting he took me along with an Austrian brother (the first stone mason I have met to date) and a couple of German sisters to a beautiful beach called Nai Harn for the sunset…it was a goooooooood sunset and probably appeared even more beautiful as we only enjoy the sun rising on the East Coast of Australia. 

Sunset at Nai Harn

The rest of my solitude was spent at Kata Noi, a beautiful little beach just south of Kata, with a few less bare bottoms littering the scenery.  I found a little hideaway on the southern end of the beach just under a  bar called ‘on the rocks’ (literally on the rocks) where I attempted to study but found myself mostly siesta-ing…it is hard life, but someone has got to do it...

Kata Noi

My first attempt at witnessing, though I set out with great determination, did not exactly happen.  After taking 'the long and winding road' to the territory at a coastal town north of Patong Beach, called Kamala, there was some confusion with the directions resulting in my pacing up and down the highway for an hour or so.  And so after glimpsing the inviting waters of Surin Beach I finally relented and opted to dive into the water fully-clothed instead…lovely!

Surin Beach

Inu and I
My second attempt was much more eventful.  The morning of my departure I went witnessing with a lovely Japanese sister called Inu who had lived in Sydney a couple of years back and had been in the Cambodian congregation.  Her sisters had previously been pioneering in Nepal so it was nice to hear some of their experiences.*  We had a couple of nice discussions, one with an American man, and another with two English lads in Thailand for Muay Thai (Thai kick-boxing...whatever blows your hair back I suppose).  Interestingly, the hardest people to witness to in Phuket are Germans and Australians...

After we finished, a Finnish sister and a English sister from Portsmouth with her three gorgeous kids (with officially the cutest accents - think young Fanny Price from Mansfield Park) took me for lunch via a beautiful lookout from the southern end of the island.

After 'le grand tour' Eleanor and Zander showed me a couple of things about Thai food...


Back at my hotel I squeezed in a massage, followed my a quick swim and then found it was time to say goodbye, and commence the journey back to Bangkok...

I slept wonderfully on the return trip, so much so that I forgot one of my bags (to all those who have travelled with me, yes, I'm sure there were a few kodak moments of my deep, open-mouthed slumber).  Alas, though I was truly proud of my keen bartering for a taxi back to Khao San Road, my pride quickly dissipated into sorrow as I found myself in another taxi backtracking to the bus station in search of my forsaken bag.  This time my tears seemed to take affect and the lovely taxi driver took mercy on me and helped me track down my missing goods to a nearby bus shelter...Triumph!

The last couple of events in Bangkok were a little frustrating but happily they were all forgotten when I hopped into 'the world's best taxi' - a self declared title of my taxi driver in the photo below...This man, a retired soldier, collects currency from all around the world as tips, and has turned his taxi into a forex museum.  I hesitated to believe at first that it was 'the world's best taxi' until he showed me notebooks no. 49-51 (as in there are another 48 notebooks before that) containing the testaments of his loyal customers throughout the years.  And if that was not proof enough, he then showed me (whilst driving) a dvd of a local Thai reality tv show interviewing 'the world's best taxi'...too funny!  

best taxi in the world...

And so ended my Siam sojourn, and after a slight delay in Bangkok terminal I found myself winging my way up through Myanmar and India.

Peering down through the window on our descent, it seemed more like early morning before the sun has risen rather than late at night, the sky a lighter shade of indigo contrasting to the shadows on the plains. I saw dark hills bursting through the clouds, then windy roads etched into the earth, then gradually lights started to sprinkle the landscape...and then civilisation...I had arrived.

Kathmandu, Nepal...


* Inu's sister travelled to Nepal with my new flatmate Ritsu...'it's a small world after all...'